Statistics on global textile waste paint a shocking picture. On a global scale, approximately 92 million tonnes of textile waste are generated annually. This staggering amount is equivalent to the height of Mt Everest being accumulated every 7 minutes, as per estimates. Although 95% of used clothes are recyclable, only 12 to 15%  are collected for reuse or recycling. 

In the UAE, it is estimated that the textile consumption is currently at around 500 million pieces annually, of which around 210,000 tonnes end up as discarded materials. Up to 90% of discarded textiles currently end up in landfills. 

The textile industry has a significant impact on the environment. It contributes to carbon emissions, overconsumption of natural resources, and unsustainable extraction of raw materials. It leads to water, air and solid waste pollution. This necessitates proactive measures to manage textile waste better and transition to a circular economy from a take-make-waste model. 

Waste & Recycling magazine spoke to industry experts who are working on various sustainable measures to address the impacts of textile waste. They examined the nuances of textile recycling, exploring the challenges, innovations, and emerging trends shaping its future landscape. 

Alan Wheeler, CEO, Textile Recycling Association, shared insights into the magnitude of the impact and the efforts that are being made to address the issue.  He explained how the production processes of textiles are resource-intensive, contributing heavily to greenhouse gas emissions. “The fashion industry is estimated to be responsible for 8% to 10% of the world's carbon footprint.” Some studies put this number as low as 4%, he said adding, “Even at the lower end of this range, the impact is significant.” 

The other key concern is its water usage. Producing one kg of cotton requires about 10,000 litres of water. This immense water consumption poses a severe threat to regions where water scarcity is a critical issue, he added. 

While cotton is often perceived as a more environmentally friendly option compared to synthetic fibers like polyester (made from fossil fuel), both have considerable environmental drawbacks, as highlighted by Wheeler. Cotton and polyester collectively dominate approximately 85% of the global fibre market. So, what’s the best solution? “Reuse your clothing as much as possible,” he suggested.

Making a case for recycling, Wheeler said that textile recycling offers a viable solution to these environmental challenges. “Reusing and recycling clothing reduces the demand for new textile production, thus lowering water consumption and carbon emissions. Recycling processes, even those that involve chemical treatments, use significantly fewer resources compared to producing new textiles from raw materials.” 

What about secondhand clothing? According to research by the European Recycling Industry Confederation, purchasing secondhand clothing is 70 times less impactful on the environment compared to buying new items. 

This raises the ongoing debate in the industry about displacement, he noted. “Essentially, if someone buys used clothing, does that deter him from buying new clothing?” While it's not a one-to-one relationship, there are discussions about whether used clothing purchases displace a significant portion of new clothing consumption, ranging from 70% down to 30%. “Even with a conservative estimate of a 50% displacement rate, it's still remarkably beneficial for the environment,” he noted. 

Misconceptions about textile waste 

“One of the main barriers to managing textile waste is actually getting to the truth of the matter,” said Wheeler, drawing our attention to “a prevalent misconception – often perpetuated by anecdotal evidence and misinterpreted data – that a significant portion of used clothing exported to countries like Ghana ends up as waste. “This narrative has gained traction despite being based on flawed research,” he said, adding that an American organisation claimed that 40% of used clothing sent to Ghana is immediately discarded. However, this figure was derived from a misunderstanding of local market terminology and dynamics.”

Quoting a recent report by the Dutch government, he said that only 4% of used clothing actually ends up as waste in places like Ghana. And in Kenya, this number stands at 2%.  

Accurate data is crucial for informing policy and public perception. Misinformation can lead to misguided policies, such as France’s proposed bans on the export of used clothing from the European Union, he pointed out.  Frame is backed by Sweden and Denmark on this proposal. "Africa must no longer be the dustbin of fast-fashion," France's environment ministry said in a statement. 

Collection, sorting and recycling landscape 

European countries are generally more effective at collecting used clothing through measurable channels. The UK likely has the highest collection rate globally due to its extensive network of charity shops. Eastern European markets are also developing. The United States collects far less on a per capita basis, despite having a larger population. There is a substantial informal market for used clothing in countries like India, which may not be captured in official statistics.   

European countries excel not only in collecting but also in sorting used clothing. Proper sorting is crucial because it ensures that low-quality items are separated out before reaching onward markets. This prevents waste from being exported, which would not be economically viable.

In the current system, textile waste sorting is predominantly manual, involving conveyor belts and human labour. Explaining the complexity is manual sorting, Wheeler said, “Sorters need to be trained to distinguish between reusable and recyclable items and recognise the usability and fashionability of items, a complex task given the varying demands across different markets.”

One promising development in textile recycling is the move towards automated textile sorting processes and the exploration of technologies such as near-infrared (NIR) and optical sorting to streamline the sorting process. Automated sorting could significantly reduce labour costs and improve the efficiency of separating recyclable materials, Wheeler noted. 

Textile recycling can be broadly categorised into mechanical and chemical processes. Mechanical recycling involves shredding fabrics back into fibers, a method used for centuries. However, it faces limitations in separating blended materials. Chemical recycling, on the other hand, breaks down fibers at a molecular level and re-polymerises them, offering a more versatile solution but at a higher cost and complexity. At present, the industry is moving towards improving fiber-to-fiber recycling processes, though these are not yet widespread.  

Comments on EPR 

Extended Producer Responsibility schemes place a levy on clothing to fund its collection and recycling, but need to be part of a broader portfolio of policies. According to Wheeler, despite its potential benefits, EPR adoption is limited. He pointed out that France stands as the only country with an active EPR scheme for clothing and textiles, while the Netherlands has legislated such a scheme yet to be enforced. “The primary challenge with current EPR models is the minimal financial burden on producers—often less than one euro per garment. This minimal fee provides insufficient incentive for the global fashion industry to invest substantially in sustainable practices.” 

“We also need design for recyclability and design for durability. They are two different things. And don't always necessarily go hand in hand. As durable materials may not be easily recyclable. We have to find the sweet spot,” Wheeler highlighted.  

Policy intervention

Mandatory requirements for recycled content, coupled with incentives for sustainable practices, can drive significant change in consumer behaviour and industry practices, said the expert. 

“However, crafting effective policies requires navigating complex political and economic landscapes,” he said, noting that Textiles 2030 and the EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles are making strides towards promoting sustainability in the fashion industry. “Despite challenges, the landscape of textile recycling is evolving, driven by technological innovations and shifting consumer preferences.” 

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Creating sustainable behavioural change, one message at a time

In 2021, the climate action NGO WRAP unveiled Textiles 2030, a voluntary initiative supporting businesses and organisations within the fashion and textiles industry in the UK to transition to more sustainable and circular practices by the end of the decade. 

Rachel Gray, Lead Specialist, Behaviour Change, WRAP, shared insights into the initiative, which aims “to bring together various actors (businesses and other stakeholders) across the supply chain to work on certain themes around clothing, but chiefly to achieve the key targets set out in the Textiles 2030 document.” The signatories of this agreement include several major textile brands, re-use/recycling organisations and affiliates. 

The objective is to transform the make-use-dispose fashion culture into one where products are made sustainably, used longer and then re-used or recycled. Textiles 2030’s environmental targets are to cut carbon by 50%, sufficient to put the UK textiles sector on a path consistent with limiting global warming to 1.5°C as per the Paris Agreement; and to reduce the aggregate water footprint of new products sold by 30%.

Gray emphasised the importance of both industry actions and citizen engagement in achieving the goals of Textiles 2030. While the industry should create the infrastructure for a circular value chain, citizens should adopt sustainable behaviours such as buying pre-loved clothing, caring for their garments properly and considering repair and reuse, she explained.  

Over the past few years, the organisation has been working on creating citizen behaviour change. It designs and implements behaviour change interventions that enable people to live more sustainable lives. It does so by targeting audience segments, behaviours, and areas where it can make the biggest impact.

In continuation of this effort, it recently released position statements addressing key questions that citizens commonly ask about clothing. These questions were sourced from social media interactions and business inquiries. The messaging matrix aims to simplify complex information about fibre types and other technical details, making it accessible to the average consumer, Gray noted, clarifying “It's UK focused, but I would say that you could take any of those questions and adopt them for the global market. Every country might have a different system in place, but essentially people ask the same questions.” The messages are shared with the signatories for them to use in their campaigns. 

But are consumers ready for a circular transition? She shared insights from a research report that demonstrates potential mass market appeal for circular business models. Conducted by WRAP in 2020, the study surveyed citizens from India, the US, the UK, and parts of Europe. The findings reveal that 90% of citizens in India express interest in trying business models such as  buying pre-loved or renting clothes. The report also highlights variations in shopping behaviour and spending patterns across different regions, with Indian consumers showing high frequency in shopping but lower per capita spending compared to their US counterparts. It also shows that there is more interest in rental among those who currently shop at higher end brands in the US and India. 

Speaking about the challenges and opportunities in educating consumers about sustainable practices, Gray explained that effective behaviour change requires three elements: knowledge, opportunity, and motivation. While the physical opportunities for sustainable actions (like rental schemes or thrift shops or recycling points) vary by location, the focus of the team is currently on enhancing knowledge and motivation. Consistent messaging and clear information are key to empowering consumers to make sustainable choices, she noted. 

Gray highlighted the importance of segmenting the public based on their values and behaviours related to sustainability. She shared a lifestyle segmentation model that categorises individuals into eight segments based on their core values and attitudes towards sustainable living. This model, although developed in the UK, has global relevance. Different countries might have varying proportions of these segments, but the underlying values remain consistent, she pointed out. 

The messaging matrix, which addresses key questions that citizens commonly ask about clothing, is available now for Textiles 2030 signatories to use, for others who are interested please contact WRAP.

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All about Digital Product Passport for textiles

The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, published by the European Commission in 2022, has set out an ambition for all textile products available on the EU market to be long-life and recyclable by 2030. It has outlined Digital Product Passports (DPP) as one of the new requirements. Currently, the lack of information on the characteristics of a product (such as its contents, production methods, or life cycle) is a key barrier to circular economy strategies. The DPP will enhance the traceability of products, and allow consumers and manufacturers to access all the information concerning a specific product. 

What’s DPP? 

The European Commission defines the Digital Product Passport as a tool to provide information about a product’s environmental sustainability. It is essentially a digital record of a product’s sustainability and circularity information throughout its lifecycle, from design to end-of-life. Information includes data on the product’s composition, origin, environmental impact, and instructions for repair, maintenance, and recycling. 

Drawing parallel to an individual’s passport, Karishma Gupta, Founder and CEO of Eslando, a circular fashion tech company, explained that a DPP contains crucial information about a specific product. Through its Relabel DPP, the company aims “to empower brands to deliver on their sustainability mission.” 

Textile recycling poses significant challenges, primarily due to the mixed nature of materials used in garments. "Textiles are not like single-material products such as glass or metal," Gupta explained. "Garments often contain a mix of polyester, cotton, wool, and other materials, making it difficult to recycle them effectively." The complexity increases with the presence of embellishments like zippers, buttons, and embroidery, which complicate the sorting and recycling processes.  

Traditional recycling methods struggle with the variety of fibres used in clothing, from polyester and nylon to cotton and wool, each requiring different treatment processes. 

Identifying the majority component of a garment's material also poses challenges. Manual sorting, often performed by trained workers, is prone to errors and inefficiencies. While near-infrared systems offer more accuracy, they still struggle with complex blends and hidden materials like lycra. 

“Often, sorters have trouble identifying the best recycler for old clothes. So they take out what’s resaleable in developing countries, and send the rest, worth $500 billion, straight to landfills. Relabel is here to change that,” she noted. The DPP such as Relabel enables data-based sorting using DPP to enhance accuracy and streamline the recycling process. "Digital product passports will connect garments to the correct recyclers, improving efficiency," she added. "DPP acts like a digital twin of the product, containing material information, manufacturing details, and recycling instructions," he said. This digital tag can be scanned by recyclers to determine the best recycling method, thus streamlining the sorting process.

The European Commission shared that the Digital Product Passport shall be connected through a data carrier (e.g., bar code, QR code, or another data-capture medium) to a unique identifier, and the data carrier shall be physically present on the product. The mandatory information requirements that will be specified as part of the ESPR will include, for example, performance, substances of concern, percentage of recycled content, and expected lifetime of the product. Blockchain-enabled Supply Chain Platforms are recommended as a best practice for DPP. 

Governments worldwide are beginning to recognise the importance of textile recycling, with policies emerging to support sustainable practices. The European Union, for instance, aims to implement digital product passports for all clothing by 2027. However, the success of these initiatives hinges on effective collection systems and public awareness. "Landfilling of clothing should be banned, but we're far from it due to current infrastructural limitations," Gupta asserts.

The textile recycling industry is poised for significant growth. Current capacity stands at around 1 million tonnes of recycled fibers annually, with projections suggesting this could rise to 10 million tonnes by 2030. As the industry scales, the goal is to integrate recycled materials into mainstream fibre production, reducing the environmental impact of virgin material manufacturing.

Government policies play a crucial role in promoting textile recycling. "Countries need to establish robust collection systems and reward recycling efforts," he emphasized. Consumer awareness is equally important. Educating people about the environmental impact of textile waste and the importance of recycling can drive significant behavioral changes.